Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Granada, Spain: El Albaicín

The Albaicín, or Albayzín, is historically the moorish quarter of Granada, though many of those refusing conversion to Christianity or not fast enough in escaping to North Africa under the reign of Los Reyes Catolicos (The Spanish Monarchs, Ferdinand and Isabella) were killed, and the remaining few were driven out by the middle of the 16th centery.

Still, the influence of North Africa is strong here, even alongside the blatant Catholic and Jewish symbolism. In the Albayzín the vendors sell Arabian pants and skirts, belly dancing costumes, pashimas, beads, and art. Tea rooms are countless and dozens seep smoke onto each street. Arabic restaurants are common, though everyone speaks Spanish. The most striking feature of the Albayzín, however, is the sheer beauty of the whitewashed houses contrasting the bright Spanish sky.

Outside the busy market area, the streets here are twisting, narrow, quiet, and seemingly endless. Most are reduced to walking paths squeezed between homes or crossing through the keyholes in the city walls to open into small plazas you will never find again. In one of these we stumbled across a small outbreak of spontaneous flamenco...each person that walked by, woman or man, child or adult, couldn't help but dance. Churches and restaurants are hidden between the tight apartments and the uphill treks are unforgiving, though very worth the view from St. Nicolas' Square and other surprise vistas along the way.

We explored this neighborhood for hours. For days. It is a maze that you don't mind losing yourself in!








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